Repotting Bonsai Trees

I am now about to do the repotting of the five trees that a customer brought to us. As i said, a lot of customers bring trees to us because they are either afraid to do it or they want it done by experts so that they don’t make any mistakes in repotting.

Although today is only the 16th of march, you must be wondering why this wisteria is in bloom, normally wisterias bloom in end of april or the first week in may, and the reason why it’s in bloom, by the way, this is one of the wistias that we Sold him about three or four years ago: it’s because he’s kept it in his greenhouse, nothing wrong with that.

Of course, now that’s in bloom he’s got to keep it back in the greenhouse, because if you leave it out and we get a frost, it will ruin the flowers. So this tree is clearly in need of repotting. The pot is so small.

The tree has outgrown the pot and i dare say it is very, very potbold. There are situations when if a tree is so potbold, you may even have to smash the pot because it just cannot come out easily. I have a feeling he’s left this tree.

A good late – or he shouldn’t have put it in the greenhouse to get it so advanced, but it’s not a problem so again, i’m using the sickle tool. This is a sickle that we use for cutting around the roots so that we can get it out of the pot.

I think these plants are probably weeds, so we don’t need all of them, but this is probably not a wheat. It’S got some other interesting plants. Next to it, so let me cut around this pot like this. I always do this with all the subjects that i repot try and ease it out by cutting the roots that are attached to the side of the pot.

This tool is very useful if you have in curved pots, as you know, in curved pots restrict the root within the pot and very often the trees can even burst the pot. If it’s going in an end, cut now keep holding in close and i’m just going to get another tool.

This is a weeding tool, but i find this very useful for levering the plant out, so i cut around it. I see if i can level the plant out and because it’s not in an incur pot, i think the chances of getting out of the pot are quite good.

As i said, sometimes you get a situation where the tree is so pot down that you got to break the pot smash the pot. Luckily i don’t have to do that so there you are. I’Ve, got it out of the pot. Now, i’m not going to do the conventional type of repotting, where i have to tease the roots and cut up to say 30 percent of the root off, because the tree is so advanced.

If i were to do that, this tree is going to suffer. So i’m only going to tease the roots gently and then put it in a good compost that will be suitable for this plant. So again, let me find another tool when it comes to repotting.

We have two very useful tools for repotting. This root break this stainless steel root rake. This is very useful for most of the bonsai, so this is how it’s used for larger and more difficult trees. You can use these root hooks.

This is a single hook. You get two hooks and three prong hooks as well, so these are useful if you have bigger trees and i’m only going to gently ease the root ball, because the tree being in bloom, if i were to tinker with the roots too much, i may spoil the Flowering – and i think, if i put it in the right type of soil, the roots will go to the edge of the new pot.

So i will just do that. I was once told that if you keep a tree fairly pothole, it tends to encourage flowering. I don’t know how far that is true. I’Ve heard that scent sometimes – and i’ve also heard it said that if you were to stress the tree so much that it thinks it’s dying, the tree will send out flowers because it wants to propagate itself to renew itself again.

I’M not sure whether it is based on any scientific fact, but this is what people have said and usually people when they make these comments. They make it from some sort of experience, so that pot was clearly too small for this tree.

Now, let’s try a couple of different parts: we’ve got these lovely chinese pots from yishing. Let me see if you can fit this one. I think this is better than the previous one decoration this side, so that is one possibility.

He did also look at this part. This customer looked at this point now. These are typical chinese type, bonsai pots. They are not. Japanese sports, japanese, don’t often use colorful pots like this, and certainly not pots that have paintings and writing on it.

So, let’s see what it would look like in this when it comes to choosing the pot, it’s not just the size which is important now in this instance, i want to use a bigger pot, because that previous pot was much too small, i’m going to plant it A bit deeper because the grafted best way to make it, but i think this is also in proportion.

I have two lovely uh, ladies here from wesley, so they’ve got a very good eye. What do you think would be better this one or the previous one? I, like the previous one, because you think the scale is better or not so gaudy.

Okay, so i think i would tend to agree because this one, if you have something which is too gory and too distracting, it, can distract from the flowers. So why do you want to have two things competing with each other, so i will go for the less glamorous part of the less golden pot.

Now this by the way, is an in-curve pot. So for the future he might have a bit of a problem getting out of the pot, but that will be a problem for another day so and because it’s incur i’m not that worried about tying it in.

So we just put those underneath and pot it up. I’M just going to say something about the soil, so if we stop the camera before tying it in because there’s an in curve and if i firm it up, it should be okay.

Now, let me just say a word about the compost. If you come close, this is our standard bonsai mix, which has about 30 or 40 akadama. Then there’s the japanese white volcanic grid, japanese, black volcanic grit and then it’s got composted pine bark and then it also has a tiny bit of jaundice number, two or three.

But let me explain to you why potting this whiskey is going to be different at the bottom. I’M going to use this very free, draining type compost, okay i’ll put that first, but i’m not going to use this compost throughout the uh, the soil, i’m going to just put it at the base to help the draining and the rest of the soil.

I’M going to use like a joininus number 203. This, in fact, is an alkaline soil and it’s like a sandy loam. I think i’ve mentioned before in other videos that i’ve done that fruiting and flowering trees prefer more loam.

That means mud for want of a better word in the soil than a very gritty soil. The very gritty soil is useful for pines and junipers because they drain help the pines and junipers to drain properly. If you use two clay, soil, pines and junipers – don’t like it, but because this is a flowering tree.

I know from experience that this not clearly. This is uh more like a journalist number one which doesn’t have masses of grit in it. This would help the tree to function better and it would help the flowering better as well.

I find that this trick that i use is really suitable for the fruiting and flowering trees as a rule except satsuki. Azaleas i’ll mention that separately now crab apples, cotoneasters and other flowering trees prefer to have a compost which has more of this soil in it.

Rather than the straight akadama and grit, which i reckon is better for, i would say most of the pines junipers and also the naples maples, also like that type of salt, although they will grow in a muddy soil, i don’t like to call it mud, but for Want of a better word if you’re a lame and you wouldn’t know the difference between one compost and another, so this muddy type soil like so, is better for fruiting and flowering trees, and this is simply from experience over the years.

I found that this performs better soil does affect how plants grow and perform so you’ve just got to try and experiment see what works and again. If you live in different climates, different countries, you will have to experiment with what is best for your particular situation.

I often get you may be reading some of the comments that we get from other youtube followers and they ask me what is the best soil to go this and that in i always try to advise them that you got to observe what local people do, because The climate is very important depending on where you live.

The climate affects the drainage and the amount of rainfall you have. That also affects the way the plants perform. So what may grow well in the center of japan or in the heat of india or the hot plains of southern china, would not be what you would use in the cold temperate climates of the western hemisphere and what grows well in california.

The soils there may be different from what you would use in another country and climate, so bear in mind that there is no surefire formula for any particular type of plant. So from my experience i found that fruiting and flowering trees like more of a muddy soil.

Like this, rather than a very gritty soil, so we’ll move on to the next plot. Now this is a red maple called the deshojo. Although i noticed in this customer’s information label he’s called it. Chisholm.

Chisholm is also red – i wouldn’t swear by it, but i think it is a de shojo and again because he’s been growing it in his greenhouse. It is much more advanced than trees. That would be normally going outdoors, so i’ve got to be very careful after repotting.

It continues to stay in the greenhouse. It’S a beautiful, beautiful room. Look at this lovely twin trunk here, and the cameraman here has just noticed and asked me: what is this thing around the rim of the pot? If we come close, he’s put a type of sealant, you know the sealant you use for windows and doors he’s put this around the rim of the pot.

It looks rather odd. It is like a mastic. Can you see it spoils the look of the pot and we asked this gentleman? Why did he do this and he said that because he saw the tree had been potted like this, the water wouldn’t go in now.

That is a completely wrong assumption. When you pot a tree like this, the water will still go in. You don’t have to have a rim to collect the water, so he was just getting worried for nothing also. I have also said in other repotting and other care videos.

If you have a problem with the water penetrating, you can drill holes into the soil and that will help the water getting into the pot as well. So doing this. I’Ve never come across this. In all the years that i’ve been doing bonsai, this is the first time i’ve come across someone who’s done this put matchstick on the pot to raise the rim so that the water gets into the pot.

No need for doing that. I think he’s just getting watered unnecessarily. He hasn’t had this tree for that long. I think he bought it from someone else and i think he’s had it for maybe three four years or so, and it hasn’t been repotted for last four to five years i was told so, let’s see what the condition of the roots is.

The pot is quite suitable for the tree nice over pot, although colorful maples are normally potted in glazed spots, either green, green or blue. It’S in an unglazed spot, which is unusual, but it’s okay.

You don’t have to always have it in a glaze pot. A lot of these conventions about what color pot and what style of pot to use much of it is convention, but if it works for you and you like it, then it’s well, i’m good! You leave well alone.

So again you notice how useful this tool is. This we call the sickle and it helps to cut around the rim, so it removes the roots which are binding, the tree which attaches itself to the edge of the pot, and hopefully, by doing that initial cut like this.

It makes it much easier to get the tree out of the pot. Today is only wednesday and in the three days or two and a half days, monday, tuesday, and today i must have repotted about 20 or 30 trees. People who bring the trees to me always ask me to do it, although my staff are capable, but i’ve been doing it and off the 30 or so trees.

I think i’ve had to smash three pots because they were so potbound absolutely portable. There’S no way. I could have got it out. I tried drilling it and using a reciprocating, saw around the rim as well, but they were so badly popped on that they finally had to uh, get it out by breaking the pot.

I hope i don’t have to do it to this tree, but sometimes many of these trees can stay in the pot for up to 10 years. I’Ve found from experience and they still are okay, and because this is not an incur pot, i may not have so much problem getting it out.

Usually, the health of the tree is also an indication as to how vigorous the roots are. If a tree is growing. Well, which this tree is there’s only one small branch which is tied here and the apex is quite okay.

While i see it, i better remove it see this. This dead branch is doing nothing that really needs to come out, and i will seal it after that. Oh there’s another one here, maples by the way you do get the odd branch dying from time to time and it is quite a common uh phenomenon with maples, so you can’t expect a branch to survive forever.

In a day. There comes a point when sometimes they do die and it would be catastrophic if you lose a major branch which again can sometimes happen, but it hasn’t spoiled the look of this tree now. Normally a tree of this size and complexity, i usually have an assistant with me: [, Music ].

So again you see how useful this tool is. I use it as a levering tool. I’Ve got to be careful not to leave it so hard that i break the pot [ Music ] [, Music ]. Sometimes if you get a hot brown tree, you could be spending up to an hour just trying to get the tree out of the pot.

So can you imagine the cost involved in doing that? The surface roots on this tree are pretty good. Maples, usually produce good surface roots quite easily. I’M showing you every process to show you how tricky the whole operation is.

Some trees are easy to report. If it’s not possible, but this is very very popular over the years i found that i prefer to use pots which are more comfortable for the tree. So if this was my tree, i would probably use a pot which is that deep about another half or three quarter inch deeper, so that i give the roots a more comfortable existence.

If it is put down too much, it can stretch the tree. Oh, it’s nearly coming there. You are okay. Now, let’s have a close look at the root ball. It is pretty portable. Look at it very, very portable solid.

So this is certainly in need of repotting. So you see what this root hook has done. I managed to cut away all this with the root hook. So again, this is almost like a bird’s nest situation. Let me bring my focus secretaries, i’m going to cut away the root rather than just tease it, because this will have to be disposed off anyway.

See all that all that root. So let me just reiterate and repeat myself: why do we repot many people who are new to bonsai? Think that cutting the root is what creates a bonsai? No cutting the root is really a process of rejuvenating and stimulate the tree into better health, because if it was pot-bound, it’s soon gets so clogged up that the roots cannot take in water and nutrients are not able to breathe, so the tree would go downhill and So that is the reason for repotting, so the repotting process is really a rejuvenation process.

That’S all root is what terrifies a lot of people the compost this was, you know i think it may have been done here. I’M not sure if it’s one or two probably sell so many trees, but i can’t always remember whether it came from us when trees grow in pots.

The roots go to the edge of the pot and it tends to get congested there, but the tree otherwise is very healthy. Usually, if you can smell the soil and if it doesn’t smell putrid or rotting, what we call it is it not anaerobic or something when it starts putrefying and that’s okay, it literally is like a basket of roots.

Look at that. I would say that it may be a shade late, but we just still caught it at the beginning of spring. Normally i would prefer to recap before the leaves come out, but this is still acceptable.

Again, i’m not going to take much soil off. I think the amount i’m taking off is not even 10. If i may repeat what i’ve said in a previous repotting video, because many books, i don’t know which books these are because customers tell me, though they read that you should remove up to one third of the roots that one third uh not rule or the advice Of removing one third rules is more, i would say, a maximum limit than i would regard as a norm and again i would use the analogy of your speed limits.

If the speed limit is 40 miles an hour, you don’t have to drive it 40 miles an hour. It’S only the maximum speed limit. So if they say to remove 30 percent of the route, you don’t have to remove 30 percent of the route.

That is the maximum in this case, i’m removing only 10 percent of the root. As long as i have room for new soil to be introduced, that should be okay and because the customer, like the existing pot, i’m going to use the same pot again, i’m going to remove the soy from underneath.

Again, you see how congested this is and i would certainly have never practiced this thing about jetting all the soil off. I’Ve seen it done in japanese instruction books and manuals, but usually in japan, where they have a very humid climate.

It would work there. But if you try to do it in this country, i think it’s a bit dangerous. So i would not do that jetting all the soil. That means with a horse pipe or a pressure washer. They jet every single grain of soil off and then plant it up again.

I’M not saying it won’t work, but i think it’s a bit of a dangerous practice. I’Ve never done that or those who have done it have not had much success so if, in doubt alone, i would commend this person who did the previous repotting, because the soil is used as nice, gritty soil that traces, our akadama in it.

So you can see how much soil i’ve taken out, not a lot and i’m taking all that root from underneath, as well so about to put the soil in, i always put of soy, so i can squash it down. I don’t want to put too much because this is a very shallow pot, so i just put enough there and then i’ll grind the soil down [ Music ].

Oh, so, just to repeat, we tie the wires in just to stabilize the tree while the roots are getting established and in fact, once the tree has stabilized, you can take the wires off, but we usually prefer just to leave the wires until the next repotting.

But because this is such a shallow pot, i think i’ve got to be extra, careful that it doesn’t come to any harm, so i’ve used quite a thick wire, okay. In fact, i’ve used three and three millimeter wide to target.

This is such a heavy tree, [? Music ] because the wires are visible. I would probably tell him to take it off after about nine months or a year, by which time the roots should have filled the pot and then the rest is just filling the soil wrong.

Okay, i won’t show you the boring party, just filling the soil and then after that i will show you how we’ll clean it. So i’m continuing the repotting of this customers, five trees, we’ve done the mystery.

We’Ve done the red deshojo maple. So we’re going to tackle this white pine. This is a beautiful, beautiful white pine, it’s grafted, but the graft is very good. The history of this tree, i always like to find out the history of these trees.

These are clearly imported trees from japan and i have a feeling it may have come from our nursery, maybe about 30 years ago, because in the late 1980s and throughout the 1990s, we used to bring container loads of these trees.

Hundreds of them at a time – and these are the sort of trees we used to import, so this could probably have been from our nursery maybe 30 years ago. So let me again explain to you what this customer has done by the way he’s not the original owner.

He purchased it from someone who bought it from us originally, but sadly that person passed away. I believe so he has bought this tree off that collection. If we bring the camera close, this gentleman again has done something which, as i told you in the previous video i have never come across.

He has used his initiative to put a mastic or sealant. You know the things you use for sealing windows and buildings and he’s put it on the rim of this. I think it’s a mica pot because he felt that the soil being like this, the water wouldn’t get in so he made a little wall so that it holds the water, but he doesn’t need to do this.

The water will penetrate so we’re going to get rid of this, but anyway, this is just to show you. I’Ve never come across this sort of thing before, but different people have different ideas, but i will have to tell him he doesn’t need to worry about this.

So we will take this tree out of the pot. It could be a bit small, although it’s not very small, depending on how much root i take off, but he did see some of these new chinese pots that we have – and these like this with a piece of scenery on one side and the writing on another Side now, if, if it was in japan, the japanese people never use these pots, but this customer seems to like it.

I always try to get across to people that what you like is not what other people may like. So you got to respect that taste. So, although you may not like it, other people like it, and this is what i’ve learned over the years to respect people’s tastes.

So let us first take this tree out of the pot and then see if indeed it needs to go into a bigger pot. If it can go back in this pot, i’ll put it back in this pot, but it all depends on the state of the roots, so we will begin by taking it out of the pot.

So let’s have a close look at this root ball. You can see that there are some major major big routes that have gone round and round and if we just have a tiny prod around see, that’s a very thick root that has gone wrong.

I’Ve not often seen this usually the fine roots that go wrong so hard to tell how long ago it was repotted, so we will tease away and then decide how much to take off and whether it can go back in the same pot.

So let’s do that. So, as you can imagine with a big tree like this, it could easily take the best part of two or three hours. If you are to do it carefully, see just teasing the root is going to take me at least half an hour more, i’m not going to just keep videoing for half an hour.

While we do this, so it just gives you a taste of what is involved. So you can already see those thick roots are beginning to appear and the compost is very good. I dare say it’s probably been done by us years ago.

I recognize that compost, that mix of akadama and the other salt huger is our trademark. So we’ve got so far: we’ve teased the roots out the root ball and the soil seems in very good condition. It doesn’t smell and it’s got enough mycelium, so the tree has been growing.

Well, it’s just that there are these big, thick roots, encircling the entire root ball. I may cut some of those off. If you now tilt the tree up to see what it’s like underneath, we may need to tease just a little bit underneath you could tease that and then i will show you what we will cut off.

So i’m now going to cut off some of these thicker roots and just keep a lot of the feeder roots around, and i say the roots are in pretty good condition. Let’S turn it around steven see okay, so these very thick roots.

Look at that. You probably don’t need these different species have different growth habits and the root systems as bonsai are always different. So while we can see the tree behaving like this on the spine with a maple, it may not be the same.

I can feel that it’s not that tight, so it’s in good condition. Okay, now we will test to see whether it can, if you put it back now, we put it in that output i’ll, bring that for just push it right. Back [, Music ] here see what the tree looks like in this pot.

So, as i said, this is what the customer wanted. So i think it’s a good fit it’s a good fit. So there’s going to be plenty soil around here and once i put it in this, this will last him. I would say another five or ten years without having to repot.

If you just hold it here and have a look, i think the size is about right. It’S quite a nice looking pot for the tree, so this is what he wants. I think it’s not bad, so we will use this pot and this will be very comfortable for the tree.

So this is what we’re going to do. Okay, thanks so with most of these big pines and big junipers, we prefer to use a layer of large grained huge, huge, a very light, pumice type material and that we put as a drainage layer, and i will use some of the existing soil as well, because It’S in very good condition, and the reason why, with pines i prefer to use some of the old soil is because it’s got the mycelium in it and it acts like a yeast.

So if i put some of the old soil, the mycelium will grow and propagate much faster than if i just use ordinary brand new soil. So this is a little trick that i’ve always done, especially for pines. When i come to repot the pines and then we will put our standard compost on top of this, so that’s as far as we got so far.

So now, i’m going to put the tree in we’ve, put a layer at the bottom, we’ll grind it down. I think if it’s too high, we may need to take some of the things too high. I think just grind it a little more and see because this customer is very obsessed with the trees being raised.

It doesn’t worry me, but if he’s raised, you start putting some more mastic around the rim, okay, the tree because he potted it wrongly in the first place, it needs to go more like that. Can you see this left-hand branch yeah not more like that? That looks better.

That looks better, maybe just a shade more another couple of degrees, two three degrees yeah that looks better. That looks better okay. Now we will tie the tree and then put the soil. Okay. So that’s it [ Applause ].

So this tree has now been repotted and look at the quality of our soil. That’S 50 akadama there, which is our main uh compost for potting pines. So this tree is now complete and, i must say, he’s got quite good taste.

I like that pot. I like that pot very much so that tree should sit comfortably in there, certainly for the next five, if not ten years so there you go, we will proceed with the next one, so we’ve taken this tree kyohime out of its pot, and you can see that It is pot bound, so we’re going to repot it and if we just put it on the other pot, we will see the tree.

It’S quite an old tree with a thick trunk. Just a word about kyohime. This is a maple that many people are very fond of, but i was just telling our colleagues that kyohime is a very difficult tree to grow in the western hemisphere.

Certainly in the uk i found it very difficult. For years and years we used to import kyohime from japan, but they are not long-lived trees. So the fact that this tree has been here for quite a while means that this grower is doing something correctly, so we will just put it back predominantly akadama fine, akadama soil, and that will be it we’ll tease the roots out to see how pot bound it Is if we just start teasing, we will just see how pot bottle it [ Music ].

Is i just like to comment about the state of this pot. You see this lime scale you get on the rim. This is a very common thing when you use fertilizer, especially, i find that the liquid fertilizers are crystals which are dissolved in water.

So if you use a liquid feed, i find that the liquid feed usually gives this chalky looking stain on the rim of the pot. So i’m going to take it to my kitchen and scrub it with a scrubbing scarring pad and try and get that off.

So when you repot is a good opportunity to clean the pots up, otherwise it looks ugly and untidy. This is a very common occurrence, especially with indoor trees, because people use liquid fertilizer on the indoor trees and you get this white lime scale.

Looking appearance on the rim, which is not exactly pleasant, so i’m going to clean this up. Well, we always learn something new. So my colleague here steve, he saw me reaching for the scarring pad and he said he’s got something nicer.

So just show us what this is steve. This is the polish polishing block. So is this what we use also for sharpening tools – yeah, oh so polishing block – will do it. So you see how nice and clean shiny it makes the pot, so it gets rid of that lime scale, so anything which is like a scarring pad or polishing block.

Uh this, i think, works probably better than the scarring pad. So i hope this channel gives you all sorts of little tips and tricks which you can learn all for free, [, Music ]. So so there you are, you see how clean it comes.

Thanks [ Music ], so we are now just scraping the surface, exposing the root system or the nebari so that the roots look as if they’re gripping the soil, the roots are not bad, that one can come off, that’s growing in the wrong place.

But apart from that, the roots are reasonably level, they’re, quite good. If you put too much soil on top of the roots, you get this thing. You know they grow from the top of the main roots, so that should come off.

Okay, just if you cut these too often then start cutting so okay in the last youtube video that i did on repotting customers trees, one of our youtube followers commented that he couldn’t understand why people if they grow bonsai, they don’t repot their own trees.

Well, the answer is quite simple: some people are just not confident to do it and, if they’re not confident to do it, they don’t want to kill the tree or ruin the tree, because if they have an expensive collection and they don’t want to ruin it, it’s Better to get it done professionally, so that is the simple answer.

So we are now ready to put it back in its original pot and we’re going to use predominantly fine akadama we’re going to try tie the tree in so there you go. So this is done. I’M not going to show you an exhibition shot, but that has been repotted and then we have one more, which is the satsuki azalea.

So we’re going to repot this satsuki azalea and it’s every bit, i would say 80 to 90 centimeter tall. It’S a big tree typical s-shaped tree that you get from kanuma or saitama in japan, and i dare say this probably was imported by us years ago, maybe 30 years ago, and it could do with a repot.

The special thing about satsuki azalea that they need to be potted in kanuma soil with sphagnum moss. So we’ll show you how to do this, but we’ll just take another pot, give it a gentle tease back in the same pot.

Now we just started teasing the roots and although the original root ball is over there, he has repotted it at some stage, but he has not used kanuma soil. This is not kanuma. This is just a very fine long type soil.

He probably use a ericaceous compost that people use or ordinary gardeners areas. The tree is growing well, but usually with substitutes. If you don’t use the genuine kaluma soil, apparently they don’t perform as well.

So, although the roots are quite good, we will treat it to a dose of the proper kanuma sauce, so we’ll tease away and put it back in the same pot, of course, when trees, assuming that this was purchased from herons.

Originally, they have done a repot during the lifetime of this tree because this probably was sold from our nursery, maybe 25 or 30 years ago, and every subsequent repot was not done by us done by someone else and lo and behold.

What do we find here? These big lumps of chalkies put in there. I think he thought that that would be a substitute for the kanuma soil. So you can see what he’s used. So people use different things, not that it is detrimental to the tree, but it’s not the ideal substrate for satsuki’s area, so all that white stuff, although it’s providing drainage for satsuki azaleas, is not the ideal soil.

So we’re going to change some of that. We’Ll get back to the original root ball and see what the soil is that should be kanuma, but on the perimeter where he is adding more soil. He’S put all these big lumps of white chalk, which not exactly good, so we’ve teased the root ball out, and it’s really only on the perimeter which there were these large lumps of white.

I think chalky material. They used not the ideal type of stuff for satsuki azalea, so we got rid of that. We’Ve teased the root ball cut, just a tiny bit off and now this is the proper kanuma soil. So this is kanuma soil and we’ve mixed about 30 percent of fine sphagnum moss in there.

If i can get steve to put some water on it, it looks this color, but when you put water it turns an orange sort of color. You just put a little bit to show you what kanuma looks like just a tiny bit. Look at this.

You see when you put water, that’s the color of the canoma soil, so we’re going to repot this tree in this soil. So that’s all is quite expensive. Just to buy the soil, it’s going to cost the arm and the leg everything from japan is expensive.

So there you are, you see how much cano masala goes in there, so just the soil alone is worth about 15-20 pounds. So this is the tree almost done and that’s the kanuma soil with moss or satsuki azalea, and then after doing this, we will water the trees in.

I don’t need to show you that you see the importance of using a chopstick, because some of the roots are so fine. You need to really push the soil into all the crevices using a chopstick. So there’s lots of finer points to repotting than you would imagine.

Using the right soil, taking the right amount of root off and choosing the right pot, and if it can go back in the same pot, we try to do that. If not, we upgrade it and put it in a new pot either for a change of design or to give more room for the tree to grow stronger.

So with that, i think we have completed the video about repotting this customers, five specimen bonsai, so they’re all large bonsai. As you can see, they’re huge. This is almost 100 centimeter high tree.

I would guess so. I hope you’ve enjoyed this repotting episode of a customer’s five major trees, [ Music ]. You

Source : Youtube

 

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